Rails Across America
A Two-Week Amtrak Adventure from Chicago to the West Coast and Back
There are trips you take and forget, and then there are trips that stay with you — ones that make people stop and listen when you describe them. My two-week journey on Amtrak from Chicago to Arizona, down to Los Angeles, up the California coast, and back across the country was very much the latter. This is the story of that trip, along with some hard-won wisdom for anyone thinking of doing something similar.
The Journey at a Glance
I boarded in Chicago and rode west to Flagstaff, Arizona, the gateway to the Grand Canyon, where I spent two days exploring the canyon, shooting sunrises and sunsets. I then continued to Los Angeles and caught the famous Coast Starlight north to Salinas, California, where my brother-in-law picked me up. Then I drove through California and made my way to Emeryville — Amtrak’s Bay Area hub — for the train back to Chicago. A grand loop across the American West, and it worked beautifully.
Coach vs. Sleeper: Choosing Your Accommodations
For a multi-day transcontinental journey — especially for seniors or anyone who values privacy and a good night’s sleep — a sleeper car is well worth it. The Roomette choice creates a comfortable flat bed and is genuinely restful; the Bedroom has seating across the full space and adds a private toilet and shower inside the room. Both include meals in the dining car, which are actually quite good. One tip from my porter: avoid the “A” bedroom, about six inches narrower than the others. And book early — I made last-minute decisions on this trip and paid for it, literally.
Life on the Train
The Observation Car — a lounge with panoramic windows — is the place to be as the landscape rolls by. A few delightful surprises: the train connects by satellite, so your cell phone works in the middle of nowhere; and Google Maps or Apple Maps will show you the train’s position in real time, tracking rivers and highways as you go. When you go between the cars there’s a lower Open button which you can kick when your hands are full to open the door [I found it much easier, hands fulll or not]. Sleeper passengers also get access to the lounges at Amtrak’s main stations— complimentary snacks, drinks, and comfortable seating. A civilized way to begin or end the journey.
A Stop at the Grand Canyon
Flagstaff is an excellent base for the Grand Canyon — my hotel was a block from the station, and the South Rim just a short drive away. Arrive at the park before 9 a.m. if you can, before the crowds arrive. I’ve visited several times, but this trip was special: a helicopter ride over the canyon offered a view I’d never had before — extraordinary — and I came home with photographs of sunrises and sunsets that I’ll treasure. Note: driving the western South Rim is restricted after around March 1st, but a free shuttle covers it well.
The Coast Starlight and the Journey Home
The Coast Starlight, running north along the California coast from Los Angeles, is one of Amtrak’s most celebrated routes — and deservedly so. The Pacific glitters to the west, green hills to the east, and the train threads between them. After the California leg by rental car, I rejoined the train in Emeryville for the return to Chicago: through the Rockies, and then onto the plains of Nebraska, Iowa, and Illinois. It arrived on time, and felt like a fitting end to a very fine trip.
Practical Tips for the Amtrak Traveler
A few things I’d tell anyone planning a similar journey:
- There are special Amtrak rates for military, seniors and others and you can find the information at amtrak.com.
- Book sleeper accommodations early — prices rise as inventory dwindles, and the savings for advance booking are real.
- Avoid the “A” Bedroom — it’s noticeably narrower than the others.
- At the Grand Canyon, arrive before 9 a.m. and check driving restrictions or plan to take the Shuttle.
- If you do get sleeping accommodations, use the lounges in the main stations and enjoy meals — a great perk for sleeper passengers.
- Enjoy the Observation car’s views, the stops and breaks occasionally and using the foot-press Open button between cars.
- Build in flexibility. Amtrak shares tracks with freight trains, and delays happen. Accept it as part of the experience.
Final Thoughts
When I tell people about this trip — the slow drift across the Great Plains, the sudden drama of the Southwest desert, the blue California coast sliding past the window — they are almost always surprised that it’s something ordinary people still do. It is. And it is wonderful.
Train travel rewards a certain temperament: people who can sit still, watch the world pass, and find pleasure in the journey itself rather than just the destination. If that sounds like you, Amtrak’s long-distance routes — particularly the Southwest Chief to the canyon country and the Coast Starlight along the Pacific — are experiences I would recommend.
Book early. Pack light. Take the window seat. Have a great time exploring America.